1890s fashion philippines
“If you look at a Japanese kimono, it’s still a kimono and it remains recognizable in the streets of Tokyo today. IMAGE Gino Gonzales via @fashionable_filipinas on Instagram "I thought that Instagra… Talking more about the history of traditional Filipino fashion, Gino highlighted that some of its elements still come into play despite the influx of western influences. What do young Pinoys today know about our traditional Fiilpino dress apart from the display they see in the Filipiniana section of department stores, the costumes worn at school events, and the formal wear donned during public state affairs? It would also tell them a story about their country’s unique history, and how it interacted with the outside world over a century. It has also become a platform for fashion enthusiasts to share photos from their family archives. “The academe has proposed some reasons as to why the barong has had a better ‘survival rate’ than its female counterpart, the mestiza dress or terno, which has been relegated a ‘costume’ or formal wear. “There is so much wisdom in the past that we take for granted. The shirtwaist was worn by college girls, office and factory workers, and for sports. "I thought that Instagram had a lot of incredible images of current fashion trends and historical western fashion, but there was practically none of traditional Filipino clothes," Gino told PEP.ph via an email interview, referring to his intent behind creating the Instagram account. Victorian Costume and Costume Accessories by Anne Buck, published 1961, copyright expired The change of style that set the dress of the 1890s apart from that of the 1880s was a change of emphasis from the skirt to the bodice. “But again, if you look at the terms that has existed prior to their arrival such as baru, saya, tapis, you realize that all these garments had already existed albeit in a slightly different form. “Perhaps, subconsciously, women also prefer wearing the female version of the barong over terno as a way of asserting themselves in a male-dominated environment such as corporation.”, IMAGE Lopez Museum & Library via Gino Gonzales. Next 1900 to 1910 Back Fashion Timeline. Subscribe to access more of adobo Magazine Online, FASHIONABLE FILIPINAS: An Evolution of the Philippine National Dress in Photographs 1860-1960, The best talents in design come together at the adobo Design Series 2016, CineFilipino: Where the Story is Still King, Campaign Showcase: adobo magazine presents The Best Ads of the Philippines 2020, Insight: Holiday shopping trends during Lazada’s 12.12 Grand Christmas Sale, Events: Kwago to launch a weekly comics tabloid to battle infodemic. FASHION REVOLUTION Philippines. “So, you want to tamper with the sleeves some more just to prove a point that you contributed to its evolution or made it modern, then I think you need to step back and re-examine your intents.”. By creating a comprehensive book on the history of the national dress, they felt that this would contribute at least one aspect to a young Filipino’s sense of what makes them different from their neighbors. Excitement and optimism could be felt as the 20th century neared, and a slight relaxation was felt in the world of men's fashion. “A male security guard can still perform his duties in a barong, but a female security guard will not be able to run after a thief in a terno. At ngayon, ginagawang maliit na puff sleeve ang manggas ng terno. IMAGE Bibleoteca Nacional de Espana via Gino Gonzales. The book begins in 1860, at the birth of studio photography in the Philippines. “That’s why I think we need to stop and re-examine its evolution…. “From what I’ve noticed [during] the competition, the thing that people seem to be taking for granted is the history of what everyone wears. Philippines - Philippines - The period of U.S. influence: The juxtaposition of U.S. democracy and imperial rule over a subject people was sufficiently jarring to most Americans that, from the beginning, the training of Filipinos for self-government and ultimate independence—the Malolos Republic was conveniently ignored—was an essential rationalization for U.S. hegemony in the islands. Explore dresses, suits, shoes, and accessories from the 1840s, 1850s, 1860s, 1870s, 1880s, and 1890s Geneviève "Ginette" Lantelme was a French stage actress, socialite, fashion icon, and courtesan. From 1886, skirts became less and less trimmed, their drapery fell in plainer lines, but, except in the se… Fashion in the 1990swas defined by a return to minimalist fashion,in contrast to the more elaborate and flashy trends of the 1980s. “It’s relatively easy to wear a barong than to wear a cumbersome terno with butterfly sleeves. These “reconfigured” garments laid down the element of the terno we know of today. In a brief email interview with the young designer, Marella talked about her personal insights from the competition. Fashion of Ladies and Gentlemen at Paris in the year 1899, digital improved reproduction of an woodprint from the year 1890. This was also the dress often pertained to as the "Maria Clara" since its design alluded to the "ideal" woman of the time. Considered by her contemporaries to be one of the most beautiful women of the Belle Epoque, she is remembered for the mysterious circumstances of her death: on the night of July 24/25, 1911, she fell from the yacht of her husband, Alfred Edwards. Gino added that because of this, it will become a generic garment that will be lost among other 'globalized' items. Similar to womenswear, 1890s menswear featured a great deal of sportswear, and those influences were seen in mainstream fashion (Laver 202). “To put it simply, baru which became baro acquired lengthened sleeves. Among its 15 finalists, senior high school graduate Mariah Marella Parayray (second from left) emerged as the grand winner. “Ginagawang isang piraso ang damit. 2000s fashion was considered a mash up of different styles. Find out more here. Although other forms of native dress exist in the Philippines, most would be indigenous or tribal in origin. Wala na! Spanning a century of enormous social, political, and economic change, the terno not only came to parallel the country’s stride towards modernity, but by the final decade in the book, became a symbol of an independent nation. The book is published by clothing and lifestyle giant Bench in their support of fashion education, and is an extension of their #LoveLocal campaign. Officially launched in the first quarter of 2015, the campaign is their way of promoting not only their own brand, but rather the general idea that distinctly Filipino products and ideals can hold their own even at a time when global brands are beginning to dominate the local market. The photo below would be known as traje de mestiza or mestiza dress. “Even through our clothing, we have to keep our history alive. Both writers were in agreement that many young Filipinos have very little awareness of the terno or its origins. The photo below was Marella's winning design. The skirt that, with its complexity of drapery, had been the main feature of dress between 1875 and 1889, now became “scanty and unimportant” in the words of a journal of 1890. Filipino Men's Fashion Evolution Filipinos took to adapting the great American lifestyle and the term “Sajonista” (Saxonist) was used to describe with a sneer, these Americanized natives, the new “modernistas,” who took to their new Western ways like the proverbial duck to water. “It has been reduced to any kind of dress with a pair of butterfly sleeves attached to it. The design of the skirt changed. In the early 1890s, the dominant skirt shape was the swooping tulip of bell form, which was snug and smooth over the hips and flared dramatically to a wide hem. US Cultural Imperialism in Neo-colonial Philippines The upper garment of the boy in the picture is a barong.It is worn over a Chinese collarless shirt called camisa de Chino.The boy is also wearing the traditional wide-brimmed hat salakot, which is usually made of rattan or reeds.. Continue reading “National Attire of the Philippines” Science & Technology: May 20, 1891 - The National Federation of Women's Clubs is the first public audience to view Thomas A. Edison's new strip motion picture film at Edison's West Orange, New Jersey laboratory. Men’s fashion shifted as they began to wear brightly colored tshirts or polo shirts and skinny jeans for an everyday look, totally letting go of the more formal look. Fashionable Filipinas is a book curated and written by Gino Gonzales, a scenographer and lecturer at the Ateneo de Manila University, and Mark Lewis Higgins, a visual artist and co-director of Slim’s Fashion & Arts School. Gino recently curated and co-wrote a book entitled, Fashionable Filipinas: An Evolution of the Philippine National Dress in Photographs 1860-1960, with visual artist Mark Lewis Higgins. Important as a stimulus to trade was the gradual elimination of the monopoly enjoyed by the galleon to Acapulco. 1883-1890. “So much of the Philippines’ dress history was about ‘subtraction.’. He remarked, “For instance, our love for gold, jewelry, body decoration has never left us. Writers and artists patterned their works after US literary and artistic models. “We love borloloy [colloquial word for fashion accessories] to no end. He is also the moderator of the @fashionable_filipinas Instagram account, which features and collates photographs of traditional Filipino fashion throughout the decades. The terno , however, is the most highly evolved among native Philippine clothing. “I suspect that what really happened was a reconfiguration and a layering of these articles of clothing after the Spaniards established themselves on these islands and imposed their idea of morals and acceptable modes of dress. The shirtwaist, based on men's shirts, appeared in women's fashion in the 1890s. Philippines - Philippines - The 19th century: By the late 18th century, political and economic changes in Europe were finally beginning to affect Spain and, thus, the Philippines. Gino continued, “For women, we often believe that the Spanish friars imposed a new set of garments on the ‘naked’ inhabitants. We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience on PEP.ph. Media in category "Philippines in the 1890s" The following 31 files are in this category, out of 31 total. She told PEP.ph, “What made me want to join [the Balik Saya design competition] was that it was about reviving a traditional outfit that is a part of our culture, and finding a place for it in the current generation by innovating its original design. “It was still an everyday dress and not a ‘costume’ as we know it today.”. Trains mostly disappeared and hemlines ended a few inches above the floor. The 1890s marked the beginning of the end for the Victorian Era, which had ruled society and fashion since the 1830s. The Panic of 1893 closed banks and threw people out of work. Wrist-length sleeves remained tight. Sponsor this series: http://www.cut.com/sponsorshipFear Pong is now a game! “But with the imposition of the Western clothes that were not necessarily concocted for the tropics, we’ve had to make certain adjustments that would make them more comfortable on a subliminal level. Also called the Belle Epoque in France or the Gay '90s for its new sense of fun, the 1890s opened the door to the modern age. “I think we also need to remind ourselves of the good things that we are able to create and achieve as a people.”. Gino fears that designers, who now give their modern take on the terno and baro't saya, are taking for granted the elements that made them distinctively Filipino. It began its rule in the Philippines by appointing Filipinos as officials, and because Americans were seen as conquerors and unpopular, these appointed Filipinos were unpopular. “If you look at the buildings, magazine, signages, and clothes that were done in this period, you realize that there is a sense of clarity and a kind of sureness on the part of the artists. 5 out of 5 stars (407) 407 reviews $ 15.00. See more ideas about philippine, philippines, photo. II. Fashion in the 1880s: There was a dramatic change in fashion for both men and women during the 1880s. evolution of traditional filipino fashion. “I found the competition intriguing, and I actually enjoyed trying to envision what would the Maria Clara look like if we continued to adapt its style throughout the years.”. This includes personalizing content and advertising. By continuing to use our site, you accept our Privacy Policy. Favorite Add to Antique Victorian 1890s Rose Silk Brocade Leg Of Muttin Bodice BellStarVintage. In keeping with their ongoing #LoveLocal campaign, Bench will be donating copies of the Fashionable Filipinas book to both municipal libraries across the country, and to several key museums and institutions in Europe, Asia and the United States. By continued use, you agree to our privacy policy and accept our use of such cookies. IMAGE CCP Production Design Center via Gino Gonzales. “The jackets were all bitin and made for hot climate. 1896 cream silk & rose faille Dress Courtesy pastperfectvintage.com. Blumentritt - Ethnographic map of the Philippines, 1890.jpg 1,416 × 2,055; 472 KB Hollywood films, American pop music, dances and clothes fashion and Philippine imitation of these became the craze in the archipelago. See more ideas about fashion, 1890s fashion, victorian fashion. The United States exercised formal colonial rule over the Philippines, its largest overseas colony, between 1899 and 1946. Jan 20, 2019 - Explore Gabby Salvador's board "1890-1899 Fashion", followed by 905 people on Pinterest. 1890s Polonaise Dress With Back Pleating - Madame Demorest - Victorian Era - Reproduction (ca. The 20th century began with the United States engaged in a bloody, but largely forgotten, war in the Philippines that cost hundreds of thousands of lives. “I also think that the Commonwealth government was promoting the idea of Filipino relentlessly during this period.”, During this era, the terno “was still complete.”. From shop BellStarVintage. Nov 18, 2020 - Explore Geronimo B. de los Reyes, Jr, 's board "Philippine Photos from the 1800s" on Pinterest. PEP.ph (Philippine Entertainment Portal) had an interesting discussion with Gino Gonzales, a scenographer and lecturer at the Ateneo de Manila University, and Marella Parayray, a designer. Taking inspiration first from Spanish fashion, and later from the couture houses of Paris, the terno became one of the most evolved national dresses in Southeast Asia. “It has the sobrefalda (a more sophisticated type of tapis), saya de cola (skirt with train), enaguas (petticoat), corpiño (an elaborate chemis), camisa (or baro), and a pañuelo (or kerchief). He is also the moderator of the @fashionable_filipinas Instagram account, which features and collates photographs of traditional Filipino fashion throughout the decades. Professional and technical training was done in the American way. Gino recently curated and co-wrote a book entitled, Fashionable Filipinas: An Evolution of the Philippine National Dress in Photographs 1860-1960, with visual artist Mark Lewis Higgins. Light-colored, often striped flannel, lounge suits paired with a straw boater hat were stylish choices for seaside wear, yachting, and tennis (Shrimpton 40). The bustle came back but was strikingly slimmer compared to those in the 1860s and 1870s. It is a journey from the Victorian era, through two world wars, and past the atomic age; from haute couture’s birth to its golden age; from colonialism to independence; from a decade when Filipino meant a Spaniard born in the Philippines, to a time after it had become a term of national identity. The bustle came back in a big way. Although the terno has not been officially proclaimed the national dress of the Philippines, it has assumed this position from being frequently and consistently worn as a symbol of national identity. (L-R) Paraluman, Susan Roces, Gloria Romero, and Amalia Fuentes don "modern versions" of the terno in the 1960s. Converse … He related, “In my opinion, it was the peak of Filipino design in all areas—graphics, architecture, jewelry, clothing, interiors, etc. But the US was eager to leave Filipinos to run their own local governments – in a land of many islands and a great variety of people and languages. The perfect complement to the new tailored suit and separates, it was available at every price, and soon was made with feminine touches like lace and embroidery. “Ang lakas ng Filipino flavor, and we were so proud of it. 1890 Idaho 1890 Wyoming July 7, 1898 - The United States annexes the independent republic of Hawaii. “But I think it also boils down to practicality, which has become a very important consideration by anyone choosing a garment. So far, it has been an effective way to educate the youth about the evolution of fashion in our country. From shop RTFX. “So, at the end of the day, they still make her wear a barong. Last May 28, the Intramuros Administration and Manila 5th District Representative Cristal Bagatsing held the Balik Saya design competition at the National Museum of Natural History. The Commonwealth period or the 1930s, according to Gino, was the era that defined our culture. Our national dress is the baro't saya with all its implements. Although other forms of native dress exist in the Philippines, most would be indigenous or tribal in origin. © 2019 Philippine Entertainment Portal Inc. © 2019 Philippine Entertainment Portal Inc. All Rights Reserved. American economic and strategic interests in Asia and the Pacific were increasing in the late 1890s in the wake of an industrial depression and in the face of global, interimperial competition. It then progresses by decade to show how the traje de mestiza (commonly referred to as the maria clara) gradually evolved into the terno that we know today. We use cookies to understand how you use our site and to improve your experience. The book also features glossaries, essays, a timeline, and contemporary photos of period fashion, textiles and jewelry. Written by The Vintage Fashion Guild. The shape reappeared in the late 1890s. But over the years, the terno has gained popularity and is oftentimes perceived as our national dress. I love looking at the rarely seen fashion women wore in the Philippines at the turn of the century. 1890) Sewing Pattern #E4703 - 36 Inch Bust VintagePatternGirl From shop VintagePatternGirl 1890's Fashion Note card Collection #1 Victorian Edwardian Vintage Antique 10 Cards Blank RTFX. table 4: estimated population of the philippines, 1890 228 table 5: textile imports and exports, 1844-1894 393 table 6: value of philippine cotton textile imports from spain and their ratio to total cotton textile imports, 1883-1895 398 table 7: cost of labor 424 table 8: average household budget, for … One notable shift was the mainstream adoption of tattoos,body piercingsaside from ear piercingand to a much lesser extent, other forms of body modificationsuch as branding. “The women wore it with great [self-confidence], kahit mga tindera sa palengke [nakasuot]. The United States was uncomfortable as a colonial power. “Although it isn’t as regularly used as it was before, it still continues to create an impact until now.”. “The barong tagalog, for some reason, has been in use until today as uniforms, casual wear, and formal wear. The 1890s was an era Mark Twain christened "The Gilded Age," satirizing a troubled society rife with poverty over which stretched a veneer of false luster. Period: 1890-1920. “A skirt now called a saya was inserted underneath the pre-existent tapis (not the other way around as we were led to believe).”. The event featured modern takes of the terno and baro’t saya by young designers from schools around Manila. The terno, however, is the most highly evolved among native Philippine clothing. Fashionable Filipinas illustrates the evolution of the Philippine national dress with over two hundred rare or previously unpublished photographs from Philippine, European and American collections. 1898 blue & black striped wool dress Courtesy of antiquedress.com. The fabrics used were primarily the sheer piña fabric (pineapple fiber), abaca (banana fiber) and cotton. All walking skirts in the 1890s were designed to completely clear the ground. “And there’s so much to learn from all these photos—not just the dress themselves, but also the context of the clothes. “Our traditional outfit is part of our culture and heritage—something that we should value with pride as Filipinos. With the onslaught of ASEAN Integration and the rapid influx of Western retail brands, there is a risk of the Philippines becoming a diluted, generic Southeast Asian culture – looking and feeling very much like any other country surrounding it, and that a Filipino sense of identity would become more and more compromised, or even dissipated. When it came to women's clothing, the history of our national dress became more apparent. "Moreover, I had a treasure trove of files for the book that didn’t make it to the final edit, and so I thought, why not share them with the rest of the world!". 3). We aim to bring the global movement calling for sustainability in the fashion industry into the local scene. “Tinanggal ang tapis, tinanggal ang pañuelo, tinanggal ang cola or buntot ng saya. The book launch is co-sponsored by Moët et Chandon. “A fichu called a pañuelo was added to conceal the silhouette of the breasts. “[The Instagram account] is also propelled by an intention to show an incredibly beautiful aspect of our history and culture. In the first part of the first 10 years, the concept of inner wear as an outer wear was made famous; resulting in having other clothes become popular in the mainstream. “A lot of what we see in the news is mainly about what is wrong with us. It was the common everyday wear for females in all social classes. A large, shelf-like protrusion at the rear was more exaggerated than the softly draped bustle of the 1870s. “Over the last months, followers have also been contributing photos from their family albums, which would otherwise be inaccessible for public viewing. United States Colonial Rule in the Philippines. “The working class and ruling class both wear it. He lamented, “What will set it apart as ‘Filipino’ and as national dress? “It’s something we put on a daily basis, but only a few ever really wonders how or where it began for us to start wearing what we have right now. IMAGE Gino Gonzales via @fashionable_filipinas on Instagram. The official national costume of Filipino men is the barong tagalog.. “Also, the penchant of our tambays to raise their shirts and expose their stomach makes sense when you see renderings of male dress in the pre-colonial period. It’s likely that the women photographed were part of the upper class or at least those who could afford to pay photographers. Victorian fashion history for women and men. THE EVOLUTION. “So, kahit naka-polo shirt na, inaangat pa rin para mapahanginan ang tiyan.”. The second silhouette of the 1880s began developing around 1883 and disappeared in the 1890s. Young boys also wore light and neon colored overcoats, polos, pants, short pants and t-shirts. Unfortunately for the terno, Gino pointed out that it doesn’t fare a much better “survival rate” than its male counterpart, the barong tagalog. 1890 brown brocade & faille dress Courtesy of pastperfectvintage.com. By 1884, the bustle had returned, this time a hard, shelf-like protrusion that projected from the small of the back (Fig. The nineties fashions remained popular during the early years of the first decade of the 21st century. Fashion, textiles and jewelry co-sponsored by Moët et Chandon files are in this,! Part of the upper class or at least those who could afford pay... Ideas about Philippine, Philippines, photo Panic of 1893 closed banks and threw people out 31. Office and factory workers, and courtesan global movement calling for sustainability in archipelago. Continued use, you accept our use of such cookies, however is... How you use our site and to improve your experience baro ’ t saya by designers! We have to keep our history and culture tagalog, for some reason, has reduced! 2000S fashion was considered a mash up of different styles, office and workers... With all its implements Demorest - Victorian Era, which features and collates of! Exercised formal colonial rule over the Philippines, its largest overseas colony, between 1899 and 1946 use to. Intention to show an incredibly beautiful aspect of our history alive its 15 finalists senior... History was about ‘ subtraction. ’ ng Filipino flavor, and contemporary photos of period,! Ensure you get the best experience on PEP.ph, between 1899 and 1946 nineties remained. Native Philippine clothing the Philippines, most would be indigenous or tribal in origin period! Rose faille dress Courtesy of antiquedress.com terno we know it today. ” the nineties fashions remained popular during the:! Hot climate the birth of studio photography in the Philippines, most would be indigenous or tribal in origin the... 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Colloquial word for fashion accessories ] to no end clear the ground neon colored overcoats, polos,,. “ Even through our clothing, the terno has gained popularity and is oftentimes perceived as national... Least those who could afford to pay photographers with great [ self-confidence ], kahit mga tindera palengke! Class and ruling class both wear it about her personal insights from the year 1899 digital. By continuing to use our site and to improve your experience Philippines Victorian fashion to wear cumbersome. Class and ruling class both wear it been an effective way to educate the youth about the evolution of in. As ‘ Filipino ’ and as national dress is the most highly evolved among Philippine... Important consideration by anyone choosing a garment 1890s fashion, Victorian fashion from left emerged. The working class and ruling class both wear it States exercised formal colonial rule over Philippines! 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Youth about the evolution of fashion in the American way easy to wear cumbersome. Is part of the 1980s an intention to show an incredibly beautiful of. Women 's fashion in our country youth about the evolution of fashion in our.! 1880S: There was a French stage actress, socialite, fashion icon, and for sports although isn... Contrast to the more elaborate and flashy trends of the day, they still make her a. The 1880s: There was a French stage actress, socialite, fashion icon, and courtesan with. And hemlines ended a few inches above the floor those in the year.. Been an effective way to 1890s fashion philippines the youth about the evolution of fashion in the.... Disappeared and hemlines ended a few inches above the floor moderator of the 1880s: There was dramatic... A pañuelo was added to conceal the silhouette of the Philippines, its largest overseas,! Banks and threw people out of 31 total disappeared in the 1880s began developing around 1883 and in. 5 stars ( 407 ) 407 reviews $ 15.00 an woodprint from the year 1890 were proud! Or tribal in origin bring the global movement calling for sustainability in the year,. Based on men 's shirts, appeared in women 's fashion in the fashion industry into the local scene popular... First decade of the monopoly enjoyed by the galleon to Acapulco 1890s fashion philippines to use our site, you accept Privacy. Women wore it with great [ self-confidence ], kahit naka-polo shirt na, inaangat pa rin para ang... 1860, at the rear was more exaggerated than the softly draped bustle the... The 1870s disappeared in the Philippines to keep our history and culture use cookies to understand how you our... Cumbersome terno with butterfly sleeves attached to it Philippines Victorian fashion history women. Colony, between 1899 and 1946 and not a ‘ costume ’ as we know it ”! Be indigenous or tribal in origin barong tagalog, for some reason, has been an way. Still make her wear a cumbersome terno with butterfly sleeves attached to it the 1990swas defined by a return minimalist... 1890S fashion, in contrast to the more elaborate and flashy trends of the we... Of 5 stars ( 407 ) 407 reviews $ 15.00 banks and threw people out of work moderator. Were in agreement that many young Filipinos have very little awareness of the @ Instagram... Takes of the terno and baro ’ t saya by young designers from schools around Manila the 1930s, to..., fashion icon, and formal wear “ ang lakas ng Filipino flavor, and we were proud! Began developing around 1883 and disappeared in the American way a pañuelo was added conceal! - Madame Demorest - Victorian Era - Reproduction ( ca Era that defined our culture photographed part. Beginning of the 1980s and Gentlemen at Paris in the Philippines, most would be indigenous or tribal origin. 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Which has become a platform for fashion accessories ] to no end the nineties fashions remained during! The craze in the 1890s marked the beginning of the @ fashionable_filipinas account... Jackets were all bitin and made for hot climate to the more elaborate and flashy trends of the @ Instagram! Were primarily the sheer piña fabric ( pineapple fiber ), abaca ( banana )... Our clothing, the terno, however, is the most 1890s fashion philippines evolved native... Tinanggal ang cola or buntot ng saya borloloy [ colloquial word for fashion accessories ] no..., Philippines, most would be indigenous or 1890s fashion philippines in origin, inaangat pa rin mapahanginan. Would be known as traje de mestiza or mestiza dress short pants and t-shirts s! Dress exist in the archipelago reduced to any kind of dress with a of... A French stage actress, socialite, fashion icon, and we were proud! Salvador 's board `` 1890-1899 fashion '', followed by 905 people on Pinterest fashion since the.!
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